At the centre of our illimitable efforts to achieve the flawless, glass skin sold to us by social media is a frustrating contradiction. People are being educated about skincare more than ever before, yet dermatologists say they’re treating a rising number of patients with preventable conditions. Why? With unlimited access to skincare advice comes swathes of token beauty trends and conflicting opinions from so called ‘experts’. Particularly concerning is the grip such trends, experts and influencers have on children and teens, who are feeling the urge to splurge on retinols and salicylic acids that could potentially harm their skin.
It’s easy to get sucked into what is a very addictive cycle. With each new product or technique comes fresh hope that this is where glass skin begins. Not to mention the way in which TikTok, Instagram and YouTube have made complicated skincare routines with hundreds or even thousands of pounds worth of products aspirational. Drunk Elephant, Tatcha, Caudalie- what proportion of these brands’ young customerbase see their products purely as status symbols?
Parasocial trust is an online epidemic of it’s own, leading impressionable young people to imitate routines that aren’t designed for their skin type. While many ‘skinfluencers’ are very diligent with their disclaimers, they can still be highly persuasive with content that seems personalised, but can never truly be so.
If you’ve ever tried to see a dermatologist on the NHS you’ll know that waiting lists are months long. The pervasiveness of skincare trends and influencers online isn’t helping. With new products and new techniques being introduced all the time, it’s hard to stick to a solid routine. The general consensus among NHS dermatologists dealing with patient backlogs is clear: gentle, minimal and consistent. Dr Angela Tewari, consultant dermatologist at King’s College Hospital, tells The Guardian: “until our early 20s, our skin turnover is excellent, so we do not need to accelerate this at a younger age.” Dr Ophelia Veraitch, consultant dermatologist at University College London Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust, says the most common skincare mistake she sees is “following skin influencers on social media instead of seeking proper professional help.”
Damage to the skin barrier is one of the greatest risks of repeatedly introducing harsh new products into a skincare routine. Although the importance of the ‘skin barrier’ is now being more widely discussed online, aggressive products are still being promoted as the key to achieving perfect skin. Layering acids, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, physical scrubs, and fragrance-heavy products can result in micro-tears, disruption of the skin’s microbiome, increased susceptibility to bacterial and fungal infections, and chronic irritation that is often misinterpreted as ‘purging’.
Rosemary deShazo, a dermatologist and Professor of Dermatology at the University of Utah, warns that “many of the preservatives that claim to be harmful are actually very safe, especially compared to plant-based ingredients that can irritate the skin and cause rashes.” She warns of “marketing buzzwords” such as ‘paraben-free’ and ‘plant-based’ that are being used not just by skin influencers but by established skincare companies.
Private dermatologists for rashes and skin irritation can offer faster appointments if NHS waiting times are too long. Of course, paying attention to your own skin and it’s needs on a seasonal basis can significantly minimise the need for you to see a dermatologist in the first place. What many people forget is that online influencers have good lighting, blurring filters and other ways of making the skin look better on camera than in real life. Instead of trying to recreate ‘glass skin’ with products alone, we should also consider the benefits of a balanced lifestyle that supports skin health through nutrition, rest, stress management, and more realistic expectations.
Images: Ibnu Ihza via Unsplash, Tokyo Kohaku via Unsplash
Joe